Plumbing system issues in RVs are quite common due to the compact nature of their plumbing systems, frequent travel travel vibrations, and exposure to varying environmental conditions. Below is a concise overview of the most common plumbing repairs for RVs, covering fresh water, gray water, and black water systems, based on typical RV owner experiences and maintenance insights.

• Leaking Water Lines or Fittings: Leaks which happen in PEX tubing, fittings, or connections (e.g., elbows, tees) cause water loss or interior damage.  We will Identify the leak using a visual inspection or pressure test. We replace damaged PEX tubing or fittings with RV-specific parts (often push-to-connect or crimp-style), and tighten loose connections or apply pipe sealant tape as needed.  These leaks are most often caused by vibration from travel, freezing outdoor temperatures, or wear over time.
• Faulty Water PumpIssue: The 12V water pump can fail to pressurize the system, run continuously, or make unusual noises, disrupting water flow to faucets and appliances.  In these situations we will check for clogs in the pump filter and clean it out. We test electrical connections and voltage (should be ~12V). We can also replace the pump if it’s worn out (common brands like SHURflo or Flojet last 5-10 years with proper care).  These issues are mostly caused by debris in the system, dry running, or electrical issues.
• Clogged or Leaking Black/Gray Water Tank Valves: Sometimes black or gray water tank valves stick, leak, or fail to close properly, causing improper drainage or odors. In these situations, we will replace faulty gate valves (common sizes: 3-inch for black, 1.5-inch for gray), lubricate valves with silicone spray or replace the seals. We always flush tanks to remove debris or buildup.  Issues such as these are casued by a buildup of waste, improper flushing, or worn valve seals.
• Water Heater Malfunction: At times, the water heater (propane, electric, or combo) fails to heat, leaks, or has a faulty pressure relief valve.  In order to correct these issues, we will drain and flush the tank to remove sediment. We will then test the heating element (electric) or burner (propane) and replace if faulty. We have also replaced leaking pressure relief valves or the entire unit if rusted (common for 6-10 gallon units like Atwood or Suburban).  These are all problems caused by sediment buildup, corrosion, or overuse without routine scheduled maintenance.
• Cracked or Clogged Black/Gray Water Tanks: At times, tanks can develop cracks, causing leaks, or sensors can malfunction due to waste buildup.  This can lead to inaccurate level readings.  To repair this, we will patch small cracks with RV-specific sealants or epoxy (temporary fix) or replace the tank entirely. Also, cleaning tanks with a wand or chemical treatments can restore sensor function.  The issue is either overfilling, the result of impact damage, or from neglecting regular cleaning.
• Frozen or Burst Pipes: Pipes or fittings can crack in freezing weather, causing leaks when thawed.  We suggest the replacement of the damaged PEX lines or fittings. We can also Insulate exposed pipes and/or add heat tape for the prevention of this problem. Always winterize the system by draining and adding RV antifreeze during the cold months or non-use. We mostly see this resulting from the failure to winterize properly in cold climates.
• Leaking Faucets or Showerheads: When faucets or showerheads drip, it reduces water pressure and wastes fresh water.  We will replace worn O-rings, washers, or cartridges inside the faucet. We can also upgrade components to RV-specific low-flow faucets or showerheads if needed.  We mostly see this resulting from wear and tear, mineral buildup, or the installation of poor-quality components.
• Toilet Valve or Seal Failure: RV toilets (gravity or vacuum flush) can leak at the base or fail to hold water in the bowl, causing bad odors and/or water loss.  In these cases, we recommend the replacement of  the flush valve or bowl seal (common for brands like Dometic or Thetford). We will clean mineral deposits with vinegar or replace the entire toilet in the case of severe issues.  We see this as a result of worn seals, buildup of debris, or improper use (e.g., using non-RV toilet paper).

Key Notes

• DIY vs. Professional: Many repairs (e.g., replacing fittings, cleaning tanks) are DIY-friendly with basic tools (PEX cutter, wrench, RV-specific sealants). Complex issues like tank replacement or extensive leaks may require a the attention of our professional and skilled technicians.
• Prevention: Regular maintenance (e.g., flushing tanks, winterizing, checking for leaks before trips) minimizes repairs. Use RV-specific toilet paper and tank treatments to prevent clogs.

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